At Frozen MOTO Industries we strive to take a dirt bike and produce a snow bike that is both technologically advanced and driven through rider innovation!
The Frozen MOTO SMX and SMR track systems are a patent pending design that incorporates true dirt bike geometry back into this exciting and growing snow bike industry. At Frozen MOTO we have painstakingly designed these systems around the bike from your bars to the drive and foot pegs then right back to the last idler wheels!
The standard industry 121 track is used in the SMX & SMR track systems. Track location and positioning is a critical aspect when riding differing conditions and having a variable attack angle is critical to get that true “dirt bike” feel. The patent pending “Broken Rail” allows Frozen MOTO to be the only industry manufacturer allowed to create the versatile attack angle built into every SMX or SMR snow bike, regardless if your a racer or mountain free rider this is an infinitely adjustable system to fit your needs!
The award winning Rekluse clutch is a perfect compliment to your Frozen MOTO system for additional bike/snow bike performance!
Being a company in the emerging snow bike industry Frozen MOTO was faced with some unique and additional challenges. We were amazed when Elka Suspension stepped up to engineer the next level in snow bike suspension and reengineered shocks for our unparalleled technology.
Partnering with Elka Susupension gives us a dirt and snow sports industry leading suspension manufacturer. Together we are able to couple the most amazing and technologically advanced susupension ever seen in the snow biking industry with the Frozen MOTO labeled track system!
Our team has worked and tested for nearly a thousands of hours last and we continue to give Elka rider driven seat time to create a perfect balance of both single speed and dual speed compression rates giving you protection from both the slower, or big, and faster, or smaller repeated, hits as well. By providing rebound options available on the Frozen MOTO, the Elka Stage 5 platform gives the system an extra container and high speed compression adjustment! You pick your needs and Frozen MOTO builds to those needs again industry firsts in manufacturing and rider driven control.
Frozen MOTO also utilizes one shock on the outside to allows the SMX and SMR track systems to fly thru and alleviate additional strain and stress on the complete track system and rider allowing you to take the most aggressive line through those otherwise miserable whoops on the track and braking bumps on the trail!
What that means to Frozen MOTO and more importantly to you the customer is that Frozen MOTO strives to have rider driven advancment. The SMX and SMR can also be adjusted depending on rider weight and conditions through an interchangeable spring rate coil over which then utilizes fluid not air to match the ever changing challenges and conditions that mother nature can provide allowing you additional hours of riding! From deep powder filled winter days to getting in and out of spring riding on those frozen trails, Frozen MOTO has you covered!
Owner
Dan Shanahan
Dan@FrozenMOTO.com
The unique front ski system is not only functional but design with style and flair being a solid billeted piece giving you strength and integrity for years to come! The Frozen MOTO ski system utilizes a four piece bolted design, not a welded design giving you the ability to replace specific parts without the added cost of a complete replacement should you have a little too much fun.
The bolted area is designed as a stress point so they can be easily repaired or replaced on scene and does not allow for the creation of additional damage to your complete snow bike/dirt bike system. The ski plate is designed and bolted directly to the fork and to the unique spindle. Four bolts creating the designed brake away location give you the ability to insert new bolts and continue to ride. This system has been extensively tested and has passed testing with “flying” colors!
The Polaris IQ footprint of the spindle is mounted to the Curve Industries XS ski creating the most advanced and reliable snow bike front end to date! You can also attach any Polaris IQ mountable ski to the spindle.
We love tricking out our bikes, ATVs, and more. Check out our recommendation for vehicle sticker decals for the best quality graphics products.
The Frozen MOTO mounting system is a a two piece design that aids in the patent pending technology. This system combines a small fit mount that connects any bike with a swing arm to the main mount. The first mount attachs to a main frame mount that then attaches to the second pivot point in the geometry at the hub.
What else? If you need graphics and stickers for your moto click here.
Keep your dirt bike battery healthy through winter by matching the storage plan and charger to its chemistry, eliminating parasitic draw, and checking it before spring.
A practical, skin-out layering system for managing sweat, wind, snow, cold hands, tight boots, fogged goggles, and changing effort levels on a snow bike.
A practical cold-engine inspection for catching low coolant, blocked radiators, damaged hoses, pump leakage, and other cooling trouble before slow technical riding.
A practical workshop guide to centering a snow-bike track, separating alignment from tension, spotting uneven wear, and diagnosing a track that refuses to run true.
Learn how powder, crust, hardpack, slush, and tracked snow affect snow-bike line choice, rider inputs, machine wear, and safe exits.
One dirt bike can cover summer trails and winter snow, but the plan only works when exact kit fitment, seasonal conversion, and winter maintenance become normal parts of ownership.
The reliable dirt bike battery winter storage plan is simple: identify the battery chemistry, fully charge it with a compatible charger, eliminate electrical draw, and either connect an appropriate automatic maintainer or inspect and recharge the battery according to its manufacturer’s instructions. Keep it dry, protect the terminals, and do not assume one charger works for flooded lead-acid, AGM, and lithium batteries.
If the bike will sit for months, disconnecting the battery or removing it is usually the cleanest way to stop parasitic drain. If the dirt bike becomes a snow bike and gets ridden intermittently, it is not actually in storage. Treat the battery as part of an active cold-weather machine and investigate any repeated discharge rather than continually reviving it with a charger.
Before reaching for a charger, read the battery label. You are likely dealing with one of three broad types: conventional flooded lead-acid, sealed AGM or VRLA, or lithium, often marked LiFePO4. Then check the bike owner’s manual and the battery manufacturer’s instructions. These battery types are not interchangeable when it comes to charging and storage.
This matters most with lithium. Antigravity specifies lithium-compatible charging for its LiFePO4 starter batteries and warns that lead-acid desulfation modes can damage them. That is Antigravity product guidance, not a universal specification for every lithium battery, but it illustrates why blindly using an old shop charger is risky.
| Battery or use case | Storage priority | Charging approach |
|---|---|---|
| Conventional flooded lead-acid | Store fully charged, eliminate vehicle draw, and inspect it more frequently than a sealed AGM battery | Use a charger or maintainer approved for that battery; follow label instructions for inspection and service |
| AGM or VRLA lead-acid | Fully charge it and disconnect or remove it if the bike will sit | Use an AGM-compatible automatic maintainer or a periodic inspection and recharge plan |
| Lithium or LiFePO4 starter battery | Follow the battery maker’s storage-state and temperature instructions | Use only a charger the battery manufacturer approves; avoid incompatible desulfation programs |
| Bike stored without electrical power nearby | Remove or disconnect the charged battery and schedule manual checks | Recharge with a compatible charger when inspection or manufacturer guidance calls for it |
| Snow bike ridden intermittently | Treat it as an active machine and watch for cold cranking or unexpected drain | Check charge after long gaps; do not assume every short ride replenishes the battery |
Do the battery work after cleaning and preparing the bike, not after it has already been forgotten in a trailer for six weeks. A straightforward process catches most of the problems that become spring no-starts.
Either can work when the manufacturer permits it. Honda’s storage guidance for the referenced CRF manual allows battery removal or, if the battery remains installed, disconnection of the negative terminal. That does not make the same procedure universal for every motorcycle, especially where access is tight or the bike contains model-specific electronics.
Removal makes sense when the bike is stored somewhere damp, exposed, unpowered, or difficult to inspect. It also lets you examine the battery box and cables. Leaving the battery installed can be convenient in a clean, accessible garage, provided you disconnect it or use a suitable maintainer as directed.
Do not place a removed battery where tools, hardware, or loose metal can bridge its terminals. Secure the terminal covers, and keep the battery away from heat, sparks, and physical damage. If it is a conventional serviceable battery, follow its own handling and ventilation instructions rather than treating it like a sealed unit.
An automatic battery maintainer monitors the battery and adjusts or stops charging as needed. A basic trickle charger may continue supplying current without making the same decisions. Those terms are sometimes used loosely on packaging, so read the actual operating description instead of trusting the product name.
A maintainer is useful when the bike is parked near reliable power and the device is approved for the battery chemistry. A disconnect-and-check plan is often better in an unpowered shed or trailer. Neither approach excuses you from inspecting the cables, case, and charger leads.
For lead-acid storage, the useful fundamentals are a full initial charge, isolation from vehicle drain, and charge monitoring. The Yamaha-hosted battery instruction and safety information also explains why maintaining a high state of charge matters in cold storage: a discharged lead-acid battery is more vulnerable to freezing.
Avoid inventing a universal recharge interval. Battery design, condition, storage temperature, attached electrical loads, and manufacturer requirements all change the answer. Check the battery instructions, then put the inspection date on your calendar instead of relying on memory.
A cold morning changes what the starter can get from the battery. This is especially noticeable with some lithium starter batteries. The 2020 KTM 300 XC-W TPI manual says its lithium-ion starter battery can deliver reduced starting power below 15°C or 60°F. It specifies short, separated starter-button presses to warm that battery before starting.
That procedure is model-specific. Do not copy its timing onto a different bike without checking that bike’s manual. The broader lesson is that weak initial cranking in the cold does not automatically prove a lithium battery is ruined. Warm-up behavior, charger compatibility, battery condition, oil viscosity, starter condition, and electrical connections can all affect what you hear at the starter.
Lead-acid batteries have a different winter concern: leaving one partially discharged increases the risk of storage damage and freezing exposure. Charging it before storage is not optional housekeeping. It is the central protection.
A dirt bike converted for winter use occupies an awkward middle ground. It might sit for three weeks, run hard for a weekend, and then return to a freezing trailer. If that sounds like your schedule, use an active-machine routine rather than a set-it-and-forget-it storage routine.
Battery access and accessory loads deserve attention when planning a conversion. Riders still selecting a winter setup should include electrical service access in the broader list of points to check before converting a dirt bike into a snow bike. A conversion that buries the battery behind brackets or bodywork can turn a two-minute inspection into a skipped maintenance job.
Do not reinstall a battery and immediately lean on the starter. First inspect the case, terminals, cable ends, and surrounding wiring. Look for cracks, leaks, swelling, corrosion, damaged insulation, or evidence that the battery moved in storage. If anything looks unsafe, stop and consult the battery manufacturer or a qualified technician.
Charge the battery with the correct equipment before relying on it. Install and tighten it according to the bike manual; terminal torque and cable routing are model-specific. Confirm that the terminals cannot contact the frame, seat base, tools, or bodywork.
If the battery repeatedly goes flat, another recharge is not a repair. The next step is diagnosis: test battery condition, charging-system output, connections, and key-off current draw using the specifications and procedure for that motorcycle. A battery that cannot hold charge may be worn out, but a new battery will also fail if an unresolved drain or charging fault remains.
Good dirt bike battery winter storage comes down to three decisions: identify the chemistry, stop unwanted electrical draw, and use a compatible charging plan. Fully charge a lead-acid battery before parking it, be especially careful about charger compatibility with lithium, and treat an intermittently ridden snow bike as an active machine. Do that work now, and spring startup is far more likely to be a ride day instead of a battery-shopping day.