At Frozen MOTO Industries we strive to take a dirt bike and produce a snow bike that is both technologically advanced and driven through rider innovation!
The Frozen MOTO SMX and SMR track systems are a patent pending design that incorporates true dirt bike geometry back into this exciting and growing snow bike industry. At Frozen MOTO we have painstakingly designed these systems around the bike from your bars to the drive and foot pegs then right back to the last idler wheels!
The standard industry 121 track is used in the SMX & SMR track systems. Track location and positioning is a critical aspect when riding differing conditions and having a variable attack angle is critical to get that true “dirt bike” feel. The patent pending “Broken Rail” allows Frozen MOTO to be the only industry manufacturer allowed to create the versatile attack angle built into every SMX or SMR snow bike, regardless if your a racer or mountain free rider this is an infinitely adjustable system to fit your needs!
The award winning Rekluse clutch is a perfect compliment to your Frozen MOTO system for additional bike/snow bike performance!
Being a company in the emerging snow bike industry Frozen MOTO was faced with some unique and additional challenges. We were amazed when Elka Suspension stepped up to engineer the next level in snow bike suspension and reengineered shocks for our unparalleled technology.
Partnering with Elka Susupension gives us a dirt and snow sports industry leading suspension manufacturer. Together we are able to couple the most amazing and technologically advanced susupension ever seen in the snow biking industry with the Frozen MOTO labeled track system!
Our team has worked and tested for nearly a thousands of hours last and we continue to give Elka rider driven seat time to create a perfect balance of both single speed and dual speed compression rates giving you protection from both the slower, or big, and faster, or smaller repeated, hits as well. By providing rebound options available on the Frozen MOTO, the Elka Stage 5 platform gives the system an extra container and high speed compression adjustment! You pick your needs and Frozen MOTO builds to those needs again industry firsts in manufacturing and rider driven control.
Frozen MOTO also utilizes one shock on the outside to allows the SMX and SMR track systems to fly thru and alleviate additional strain and stress on the complete track system and rider allowing you to take the most aggressive line through those otherwise miserable whoops on the track and braking bumps on the trail!
What that means to Frozen MOTO and more importantly to you the customer is that Frozen MOTO strives to have rider driven advancment. The SMX and SMR can also be adjusted depending on rider weight and conditions through an interchangeable spring rate coil over which then utilizes fluid not air to match the ever changing challenges and conditions that mother nature can provide allowing you additional hours of riding! From deep powder filled winter days to getting in and out of spring riding on those frozen trails, Frozen MOTO has you covered!
Owner
Dan Shanahan
Dan@FrozenMOTO.com
The unique front ski system is not only functional but design with style and flair being a solid billeted piece giving you strength and integrity for years to come! The Frozen MOTO ski system utilizes a four piece bolted design, not a welded design giving you the ability to replace specific parts without the added cost of a complete replacement should you have a little too much fun.
The bolted area is designed as a stress point so they can be easily repaired or replaced on scene and does not allow for the creation of additional damage to your complete snow bike/dirt bike system. The ski plate is designed and bolted directly to the fork and to the unique spindle. Four bolts creating the designed brake away location give you the ability to insert new bolts and continue to ride. This system has been extensively tested and has passed testing with “flying” colors!
The Polaris IQ footprint of the spindle is mounted to the Curve Industries XS ski creating the most advanced and reliable snow bike front end to date! You can also attach any Polaris IQ mountable ski to the spindle.
We love tricking out our bikes, ATVs, and more. Check out our recommendation for vehicle sticker decals for the best quality graphics products.
The Frozen MOTO mounting system is a a two piece design that aids in the patent pending technology. This system combines a small fit mount that connects any bike with a swing arm to the main mount. The first mount attachs to a main frame mount that then attaches to the second pivot point in the geometry at the hub.
What else? If you need graphics and stickers for your moto click here.
A practical, skin-out layering system for managing sweat, wind, snow, cold hands, tight boots, fogged goggles, and changing effort levels on a snow bike.
A practical cold-engine inspection for catching low coolant, blocked radiators, damaged hoses, pump leakage, and other cooling trouble before slow technical riding.
A practical workshop guide to centering a snow-bike track, separating alignment from tension, spotting uneven wear, and diagnosing a track that refuses to run true.
Learn how powder, crust, hardpack, slush, and tracked snow affect snow-bike line choice, rider inputs, machine wear, and safe exits.
One dirt bike can cover summer trails and winter snow, but the plan only works when exact kit fitment, seasonal conversion, and winter maintenance become normal parts of ownership.
TLDR A snow bike conversion replaces the dirt bike’s rear wheel with a track system and the front wheel with a ski. Before buying a
TLDR: A good snow bike layering system starts with a close-fitting, non-cotton base layer, adds only enough adjustable insulation for the work rate, and finishes with a windproof, snow-shedding shell. Begin slightly cool, vent before hard riding makes you sweat, seal the shell before fast transfers, and carry a protected dry base top, gloves, and socks.
The biggest mistake is dressing for the temperature beside the truck instead of the workload on the bike. Digging out a track, wrestling through tight trees, and repeatedly lifting a machine can generate serious heat. Then the trail opens, speed increases, and cold air strips that heat away. A useful snow bike layering system must handle both phases without sacrificing armor, movement, or control feel.
Moisture management comes first, adjustable warmth second, and wind protection third. The Motorcycle Safety Foundation recommends thermal underwear, insulating layers, and a windproof outer layer for cold-weather motorcycling. It also stresses that protective equipment must preserve warmth, dryness, and injury protection because numbness can interfere with motorcycle control. MSF personal protective gear guidance
| Zone or layer | Primary job | What to prioritize | Common failure |
|---|---|---|---|
| Base layer | Move perspiration away from the skin | Close fit, quick drying, full movement, flat seams | Cotton or a loose, saturated shirt stays wet against the body |
| Midlayer | Trap adjustable warmth | Breathable fleece or light synthetic insulation that packs easily | One heavy layer is difficult to regulate during changing effort |
| Armor and riding protection | Maintain impact and abrasion protection | Correct fit, full range of motion, unobstructed vents and closures | Bulky insulation shifts armor or limits movement |
| Outer shell | Block wind and shed snow | Useful vents, sealed closures, mobility, compatibility with boots and gloves | A fully closed shell traps sweat during technical riding |
| Hands | Preserve warmth and lever control | Dexterous riding gloves plus a dry, warmer spare pair | Thick gloves reduce feel; wet gloves chill quickly |
| Feet | Keep feet dry without restricting circulation | Dry socks, correctly fitted boots, room to move toes | Extra socks make the boot tight and feet colder |
| Head and face | Protect exposed skin while controlling moisture | Helmet-compatible coverage and clear breathing paths | Breath is directed into the goggles and causes fogging |
Wear a synthetic or wool base layer directly against the skin. It should fit closely enough to move moisture but not bind at the shoulders, elbows, hips, or knees. Avoid cotton as the primary next-to-skin layer. Once cotton absorbs sweat, it is slow to become useful again in cold conditions, especially when buried beneath armor and a shell.
That wet layer is more than an annoyance. The CDC notes that hypothermia can occur above 40°F when a person becomes chilled after getting wet from rain, sweat, or cold water. Its guidance recommends loose-fitting layers and replacing wet clothing with dry clothing. CDC hypothermia prevention guidance
For active riding, start with a breathable fleece or light synthetic midlayer rather than a huge insulated jacket. A lighter layer is easier to vent, remove, or stash. Pack a warmer insulating piece for long exposed transfers, mechanical delays, recovery stops, or the ride back after the day’s hardest work is finished.
Down can provide excellent warmth for its packed size, but it needs protection from sweat and snow. Treat a puffy as a packed warmth layer unless its design and the day’s conditions make it suitable under the shell. The working layer should tolerate repeated venting, movement, and occasional moisture.
Armor placement depends on the equipment. Some pressure suits are intended to sit close to the body; other protective jackets combine armor with the outer riding layer. Follow the manufacturer’s fit instructions. Whatever arrangement you use, confirm that the protectors stay in position, the shell vents remain accessible, and you can stand, turn, reach the bars, and pick up the bike without tight spots.
The shell must block wind during speed and shed snow when you step off into deep powder. It also needs vents that can be operated with gloves. Pit, chest, thigh, or side vents are valuable only if armor and midlayers do not cover them. Check cuff overlap with gloves, pant overlap with boots, and exposed gaps at the waist or neck before leaving.
A thermometer cannot describe the whole ride. Snow texture, speed, terrain, wind, humidity, sun, and the number of stuck bikes all change the heat load. Plan around the hardest work and the coldest low-output section rather than trying to find one magic combination.
Terrain also changes effort. Reading powder, crust, slush, and tracked snow before committing can reduce unnecessary digging and energy use; the same clues are covered in this guide to choosing snow-bike lines by snow texture.
Do not wait until sweat is running down your back. Clothing has thermal lag: by the time you feel overheated, moisture is already building inside the system. Make adjustments just before the terrain changes.
This routine sounds fussy at the truck. On the trail it becomes as normal as adjusting goggles or checking fuel. A 30-second vent change is easier than recovering from a soaked shirt during a windy ride home.
The warmest glove is not automatically the best riding glove. You still need to operate the clutch, front brake, throttle, switches, and controls precisely. Use a glove that provides adequate warmth without bunching at the palm or restricting finger movement. Carry a dry spare pair or spare liners in a sealed bag. A warmer glove can be reserved for transfers or stops.
If gloves become wet while digging, change them before the next high-speed section. Heated grips or suitable heated equipment may help in some conditions, but heat does not restore wet insulation or correct poor fit. Route and protect any electrical connection according to the equipment instructions so it cannot snag or interfere with steering and controls.
One appropriate sock inside a properly fitted boot usually beats stacking socks until the boot is tight. Compression reduces space for insulating air and can restrict circulation. Confirm that you can move your toes and still feel the pegs, brake pedal, and shifter. Carry dry socks because snow entering the boot or sweat accumulating during hard riding can defeat the first pair.
A balaclava or neck tube should cover exposed skin without channeling exhaled air directly into the goggles. Keep the helmet’s intended vents clear, seat the goggles evenly, and avoid burying their lower edge under bulky fabric. When stopped after hard work, open the helmet or move the face covering briefly so humid air can escape before it freezes or condenses on the lens.
Pack replacement clothing separately from machine tools, fuel, and wet recovery gear. A waterproof roll-top bag or sealed liner is cheap insurance. The purpose is not to carry an entire wardrobe; it is to restore the parts of the system most likely to become saturated.
Keep the apparel recovery kit distinct from the tools and parts needed for the machine. Broader risks—including weather exposure, changing traction, visibility, and route decisions—should be considered before departure; see the safety and risks of dirt biking in snow for that wider planning discussion.
Shivering, exhaustion, confusion, fumbling hands, slurred speech, and drowsiness are warning signs of hypothermia. Stop riding, shelter the person from further exposure, replace wet clothing with dry layers, and seek appropriate emergency help rather than treating those signs as ordinary discomfort.
Motorcycle control is an early practical test. If fingers cannot work the controls reliably, feet cannot feel the pegs, or the rider is making confused decisions, the group has already waited too long to address the cold. Turn the situation into a warming and recovery problem, not a toughness contest.
A warm rider can still be stranded by a neglected snow-bike system. Timbersled’s ARO maintenance guidance calls for post-ride inspection and identifies areas including brakes, chains, lubrication, fasteners and torque checks, rear-kit condition, hyfax, and track condition. It directs owners to the applicable manual for procedures and specifications.
Use the current manual for both the exact snow-bike system and the host motorcycle. Timbersled’s model-specific documentation likewise directs riders to consult the snow-bike-system manual and the host-bike manual; values or procedures from one kit or model year should not be generalized to another. Riders still planning a build can start with the compatibility and ownership questions in this dirt-bike-to-snow-bike conversion guide.
Dress for the hardest work, carry insulation for the fastest and least active parts of the ride, and protect a dry replacement layer from everything else in the pack. Start slightly cool, vent before the climb or technical section, and seal up before speed exposes you to wind. If sweat or wet snow defeats the first setup, change layers early. The best snow bike layering system is not the thickest one—it is the one you can adjust before discomfort becomes lost dexterity, fogged vision, or a genuine cold-weather emergency.